In this article I’m going to explain how to use a park tool crank puller.
The Park Tool crank puller was one of the first bicycle tools I bought. Park Tool has various versions all designed to achieve the same thing. I have the CWP-7, a crank puller without a handle meant to use with an adjustable wrench.
It has two tips with different diameters, meant for different bottom brackets: standard square tapered bottom brackets and Octalink bottom brackets.
Since I don’t run Octalink bottom brackets I only use this one for square tapered bottom brackets.
There also the CCP-22 for square tapered only, and the CCP-44 for Octalink bottom brackets.
Video Tutorial
Step 1. Removing the dust cap
The crank is tightened onto the spindle with a crank bolt. Mostly older-style cranks seal this bolt with a dust cap.
Before you get to the part where you can take the crank of the spindle, you’ll need to remove the dust cap. In my case there’s a little slot at the edge of the cap of the dust cap which is pressed into place. You can put in a flat-headed screwdriver and pry it out.
Other versions of dust caps have wide slits in the center, a hole for an allen key or two holes or a pin spanner. All of these versions are screwed into place.
Original dust caps are both rare and expensive. That’s because the flimsy plastic damages easily and they tend to get lost. So be careful when trying to get them loose.
Step 2. Removing the crank bolt
The crank is held into place with a crank bolt. I have a Park Tool crank bolt wrench, which has a 14mm socket on one side and an 8mm hex tool on the other.
In this case I’ll be needing the socket wrench part.
Step 3. Removing the chain
When the crank comes off with the chain still on it, it gets stuck in the derailleur cage because it doesn’t bend sideways. So it’s a good thing to remove the chain and lay it on the bracket housing before removing the crank.
Step 4. Some tips on how to use a Park Tool crank puller
Make sure the tip is rotated far enough outwards or to remove it altogether. Or you’ll be like me and think the crank puller won’t move any further because the threads are dirty instead of the press already sitting against the crank bolt.
Be careful not to cross-thread the fine threads in the crank. Especially when the dust caps are missing the threads might be dirty, making it difficult to get the crank puller into place.
The threaded part of the crank puller is screwed into the crank arm. When in place the rotating tip presses against the bottom bracket spindle, pushing itself and the crank with it, away from the spindle.
If the crank puller goes in about half an inch, you’re good to go. While holding the crank with one hand the other can rotate the press counterclockwise with the help of an adjustable wrench.
I never had too much difficulty removing a crank with this tool, no matter how old and beat up they were. If a crank won’t budge, it’s just a matter of exerting a bit of extra force.
And that’s how to use a Park Tool crank puller! If you like this article give it a thumbs up. If you have any questions or suggestions for new articles, let me know in the comments below. Cheers.
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